DUBROVNIK, CROATIA

Saturday 21^st November

For us we left early at 9.30 as we had to catch the 2.15 ferry at Ploce. It was a very peaceful and pleasant drive and the coast road was picturesque and as Vicki was driving I got to sit back and enjoy the scenery. There were little seaside villages along the way but we really only get to glimpse them as there is always a road going down to them as the main road travels above them on a higher ‘coast’ road. It is a bit annoying as we are sure they would be neat to look at but probably not much to see and too hard to get down to with the campervan. One place looked real neat at the start and I would have loved to stop for a coffee but too early. It is surrounded by huge mountains and a river and quite quaint, with a sort of a pass way gorge to the interior. Maybe we will stop there on the way back to split. We arrived into Ploce around lunchtime got our tickets for the ferry and had a coffee. Coming into Ploce we passed a bunch of lakes and I think this is a tourist attraction in the summer and the geography is interesting. But as we get close to Ploce it seems to contradict itself with, being a busy inland port, expectations of modern facilities and infrastructure but it is very dingy and run down. In fact there is a decidedly hideous and architecturally bizarre housing that looks like something out of Mad Max v Logans Run. Everything seems to smack of the old days but when you consider the hard times in the Yugoslav wars and the subsequent splitting of the countries it is understandable and a little sad but at least there seems to be happier times now even if some of the wealth hasn’t reached here yet.

We boarded the ferry which wasn’t full and a very modern and clean it was and we had a misty rainy trip for an hour to the peninsula port of Tripanj. Managed to have a cappuccino and a beer (no prizes to guess who had what). We got off the ferry and had a short stop to sort out our journey down to Dubrovnik(I will call Dub). Vicki’s original plan was to take the short 10k journey to Orebic where she had found a campsite but it was a little bit in reverse of the way to Dub but the weather was wet and windy and the roads were narrow and dodgy. Also we would have been travelling on the cliff side and the Armco barriers were very low and only bolts holding them in. I know it sounds paranoid but sometimes it is just not worth it, especially in inclement weather, and some risks are worth taking and some aren’t. Luckily we have the advantage of street view on the tablet with google maps so we can physically see them (along with potential parking places) and make a decision. Since it doesn’t really change any plans except make it easier as we are heading in the direction of Dub we decide to take the left and not the right turn. How this will influence our journey we will never know (sliding doors syndrome) but the decision is made and we continue in the rain and wind.

Again the afternoon is quickly coming to an end and by 4pm it is starting to get dark so we are on the lookout for a potential overnight stop. I have the advantage of Google and can see what is coming up and when you convert to satellite you can see the lay of the land which is fantastic finding carparks, forests and space to park up where it looks safe. So we turn into a small village called Drace and park in a carpark right on the small harbour. By this time it is really blustery and rainy, the little boats are bobbing like crazy in the water and all the houses, cafes and buildings are shuttered up and seem deserted. We take our bikes out and settle in for the night only disturbed by the comings and goings of a few locals checking on their boats but they seem oblivious to us. Funny enough we feel more content and safe here than some campgrounds and sleep well. We do feel very safe here in Croatia, I get the feeling that they are a respectful and proud people and despite or because of their past history and hardship are not a frivolous or false people and on the whole have better things to do than be petty criminals.

The weather is a little better in the morning and we continue on our way on the narrow roads across the peninsula where it changes from inland to seaside roads punctuated by lots of wineries which are closed except for a few. The land here is a harsh provider and the vines are very stunted and gnarly but I bet they provide the most tasty grapes and subsequent wine and liquors. The vineyards are situated on every available hillside that faces towards he most sun and are terraced using the abundant rocks which I feel make up 80% of the soil so can only imagine the amount of hard labour that goes into producing any small area of production. The villages are not always pretty but are functional and I understand that scarce money can’t always be spent to make the outside look ‘nice’ for us tourists. I get the feeling they are probably one hell of a lot more happy than kiwis & aussies that are obsessed with keeping up with the Jones’s and spending big for no real gain.

We continue the spectacular coast drive to Dub and look out over the Adriatic to the islands with the sea truly sparkling in the afternoon sun. It is beautiful and I can totally agree with the hype over this area and I am glad we have made the effort considering the difficulties getting here without going through Bosnia and the highway. We pass the most beautiful bays where the lucky few reside or can holiday at the huge resorts that seem to occupy a whole bay. I suspect that the locals may resent them but it does bring in $$ and employment.  We can only dream of staying at these but dream nevertheless. We approach Dub and the road looks down at the city and the huge suspension bridge that you have to enter by. We stop at the lookout to take the obligatory photos and as us hardcore campers do take the opportunity to empty the toilet at the portaloo as there is no camper horror more terrible than a full potty!! We also take the time to find the best route to the camping ground we are planning to stay outside even though they are closed.  In a place like Dub where parking is at an absolute premium even a closed ground is gold and after a disastrous attempt to get to the old town and see if there is a park (more chance of winning lotto) we get to Camp Solitudo which lives up to its name as there is no one here and we find a park outside in an actual new camping park. We figure that since there are no signs saying we are not allowed to stay during the closed season then we will find a pitch for the night.

We lock up and walk into the old town which is 4km way and a pleasant walk and being Sunday quiet with little traffic. The old town is surrounded by a wall and looks really cool and is small compared to others we have explored. Outside the walled city we are approached by a young chap who, with his band, are touring Europe and are selling their own CD to raise money to play in Vienna next month. We have a nice, informative chat (they are from Parnu in Estonia where we have been) and help their fundraising effort by buying one after hearing a song on their Samsung tablet. It sounds ok so hope the rest is good to listen to. We couldn’t resist asking how many tablets they have gone through given our experience! Entering the city we are surprised that it is not similar to others. It looks clean and new looking sought of like a theme park attraction but it is genuine so maybe they have done a lot of renovations. It has wide main thoroughfares and not as many shops but it is now the off season so to be expected. We wander around and there is evidence of buildings being reno’d and because all the buildings are beautiful stone and none are painted there is absolutely no shabbiness which adds to the unreal look for something so old. There are still cute alleyways where people live with a few shops and restaurants but maybe we were spoilt or influenced by Venice but all seems a tad sterile. Somehow now I appreciate the originality of the other old towns we have seen which at first impression I see as shabby and a bit rundown but reflect the real world. Maybe it is better when bustling in summer.

We find a small Cliffside bar and though a bit exy for Croatia it has the best view and the coast today is blustery so enjoy the waves crashing as we saviour our first drink of the day. On the way to the old town we have noticed a huge 5 star hotel which overlooks the bay and curls around it so nearly every room has a view like the ones we saw in the way in. We drool at the pool but today it has waves crashing into it and is now closed for winter. We end up getting the local bus back to base to save our legs for $6aud. We had decided not to eat out as we have food we have to cook as we do not waste anything if we can help it. Vicki gets on the net and checks out the Rixos hotel we saw just for fun and find out the reviews are really good and only 600kuna(about $120aud) for a night in the cheapest room including buffet breakfast and the use of indoor pool, sauna, shock pool, aroma steam room, gym and mineral pool. We look at our timetable and figure we can afford the time and $$ to spend a night and finally have our long awaited wedding anniversary that we have planned to have but have not found anywhere we hope it is worth it. We see other offers from different agencies but decide to go to the hotel in the morning see what they can offer and more importantly whether we can park our van there. It is no use getting a night then find there is no parking and no refunds.

We are pleasantly surprised when we can stay in a superior suite with king size bed and sea views for 700kuna ($140.00aud) and we can park out the front We accept and get our stuff from the van farewell Morrison the Van for the night happy in the knowledge that he is ritzing it as well! We are shown to our room on the 9^th floor and the staff are exceptionally friendly and we are happy with our decision to have our first night out in Europe in 8 months. We are shown to our room which is beautiful and we look at each other with huge grins on our faces as we sit on the most comfy bed and look out over the Adriatic Sea to the old town and islands we saw yesterday from the Cliffside bar. And to top it off management send up a bottle of bubbly to celebrate our belated anniversary. What are wonderful gesture and makes spending a part of our careful budget on a bit of luxury. We spent a wonderful 2 hours in total swimming in the 36c pool followed by a 15 minute sauna, plunge cold pool, mineral pool then 20minutes in an aroma steam room another plunge and mineral swim then back to the room for a drink on the deck and a small snooze for me while Vicki takes advantage of the internet.

We decide to check out the buffet or A La Carte for dinner as a treat and though not expensive compared to anywhere else is still $40aud each but what the hell we deserve it and I for one gorge myself silly!! I wonder how they can have a buffet when there are only 8 people eating including us but halfway through a horde of inevitable tour bus Asians tramp in, take over and cough, hoik and talk loud so now we see why. It is interesting that the next night there is no buffet as there are no numbers to warrant it. We retire for the night and wake up not touching each other for the first time in ages in a bed the size of our van.

Vicki is totally refreshed and revelling in a real bed but funny enough I have woken up to a crook back which I get now and then usually being an idiot on the diving board or camp trampoline and ironic considering the bed but probably from the stretching and swimming from the water pools and sauna yesterday. So I take inflammatory pills after a mega buffet brekky which had fruit, cereals, hot and cold buffet, croissants, chocolate  pastries etc etc so had an hour relax then back to the pools for another two hours. Yes by now we had decided to rearrange our schedule and spend another 2 days as this is too good to leave and it doesn’t hurt our travels as we now realise we will probably be spending less time in Greece after research has shown a lot is closed and we will spend more time in Southern Spain. At 5.0 we head into town towards the old town to have pizza as they are so yummy over here, real crispy base and tasty at a good price as we share. We find a small pizzeria and have our favourite Capricciosa – tomato, cheese, ham and mushrooms, sometimes with artichokes- with a Greek salad wine and beer for $30.00aud. Back to our room watch tv as there are English channels have a drink then cuddle up away from each other due to the football field size bed. We wake refreshed but my back is still a little sore and not up to a gym session so I pursue a comfy position in the now my best friend bed and Vicki goes off in her Lorna Janes for a gym workout, the first in over 8 months. She comes back revitalised but at least I am sitting up by now watching BBC,CNN & Euronews as well as the odd roadrunner v wile e coyote cartoon. Today is a repeat of yesterday and as I write this we will be heading out to the pizzeria.  The only bit of excitement is when we left the sauna put on our bathrobes and slippers and went to the pool to leave our towels. Vicki commented that I was wearing her slippers but I said no as I hang my robe on the right and she on the left outside the sauna (this is our 3^rd time and routine is important something we have learnt in the van) We don’t think much of it until we look at each other and her robe is to her ankles and mine is around my knees and I discover the door card in MY pocket! We try the door and our card doesn’t work and we can’t get into our room. Funny enough this is the first time that Vicki has taken both cards with her IN the cover that has our room number on it. She is so security conscious and normally she would take only the door card with no indication of what room we are in. We have visions of someone getting our card while we are relaxing and stripped our room then put the card (or different ones) back in the wrong robe pocket.  Somehow our robes have been switched on the hanger outside the sauna and now we can’t get into our rooms. Panic. I know it sounds a bit paranoid but in our room are our wallets, cards, Passports, Tablets and basically all our vital things and a robbery would mean the end of our travels.  We have felt that it is all secure as it is also the low season. We go to reception and they get us new cards and we reopen our room and everything is ok, what a relief. The only explanation is someone has gone to put our robes on thinking they are theirs (unusual considering we only saw one couple and a single guy use the facility), realise their mistake and put them back wrong, along with our card electronically failing at the same time. A relief but weird. Or someone was f**king with us and switched robes which is hard to fathom. Never mind all k in the end.  (Actually after Scot wrote this he realised that maybe he had picked up my robe by mistake after the pool so maybe it wasn’t someone switching our robes after all, but it was still strange that our cards didn’t work in the room.  We think they may have thought we were only staying 2 nights in total and not 3 and locked our cards out during the day).

I felt so silly going to reception in a bath robe and slippers to have to explain that our room cards weren’t working anymore and we were worried about what had happened at the spa, but since there essentially isn’t anyone else staying here other than 3 more couples it was ok and no one saw us.  After that episode we calmed down and I worked on some computer work I needed to get done and Scot sat outside with his pencils and did some sketching of the picturesque scenery from our room.  We went down to the same place for dinner to have pizza and Greek salad which was so nice.  we am looking forward to having some real Greek salads in Greece when we get there.

No one turned up to do a turn down and give us choccies tonight so I think they definitely think we have gone.  I can only hope they only charge us 2 nights stay as well – wouldn’t that be good!  Our last night of luxury.  In the morning it will be a reasonably early rise, off to the gym for a bit of a workout (mostly due to the large brekkies we are enjoying) then a swim, maybe a steam or quick sauna before showering, breakfast and off.  Don’t know what checkout time is but since no one is staying here I am sure they won’t mind if we leave a little late.